Saturday, December 22, 2012

Investing/Saving Primer

Primer on Savings & Investing
If you look at the people who are successful savers and investors, you will find they share a number of common denominators in their planning, timing, and implementation.  The thought here is to share these "secrets to savings success" with you.  This is not an attempt to provide investment advice, or usurp the authority of any investment or financial adviser you may be using.  In fact, if they were to read this primer, they would probably agree with it wholeheartedly.

First Step:  Get Your Ducks In Order
Before you consider any significant investing plan, you should first make sure your "financial basics" are covered in related areas because they are investments in their own right.

Make sure you are adequately covered with the right kind and amounts of insurance for you and your family.  Do you have the proper amount of life insurance?  How about disability insurance?  In fact, you are statistically 5 times more likely to become disabled than to die.  If you own vehicles or property, are they properly covered in case of accidents, and lawsuits?

Next, do you have any emergency money on hand?  A common rule of thumb is to have the equivalent of 3 months of living expenses in an account that you can liquidate at a moment’s notice. That doesn’t mean you need to put this money under your mattress, or in a checking/savings account.  You can put the money into higher yielding investments as long as you can get the principal out immediately.

Third, are you comfortable with your home ownership (or lack of it) situation?  For qualitative as well as quantitative reasons, you should be satisfied here. If not, it is a very significant foundation to get in order first.  In this topsy-turvy world, it’s important that you feel secure about your shelter.

Fourth, how is your overall debt structure?  Do you have a lot of consumer-type loans outstanding with high interest rates?  If so, paying them down is actually a good investment.  If you have $3,000 outstanding on a credit card that is charging you 18% annualized, non-tax deductible interest, by paying it off you are actually making nearly 18% on your money with no risk.  So you should compare the amount of interest you are paying on debts to the amount of return you will make on your money to determine how much debt to retain vs. pay off.

Finally, should you be investing in any extra education for yourself?  The proper kind of advanced learning for your job can pay for itself many times over.  In fact, it is probably the best overall investment you can make for yourself.

Step Two:  Establish Your Specific Investment Goals
The secret to success in anything is to know your strengths and weaknesses.  For investing, the strongest point is to HAVE A SPECIFIC GOAL!  What are  you trying to achieve?  Retirement?  College?  A Big Purchase like a house, boat, or wedding?  Or extra income?  Knowing this sets the stage for everything else.  It tells you whether your objective is income vs. appreciation, and it sets up a strategy that is used in conjunction with your life cycle and risk tolerances.

Next, try to QUANTIFY THE GOAL. This allows you to make reasonable estimates as to how much you will need to invest, for how long, and at what rate of return in order to reach the goal.  This helps you to understand and quantify your risk/reward factors, and gives you the "trade off" figure that is, the amount of money you must put away today instead of spending it on something else in order to reach a goal down the road.  In short, you are trading off a short term pleasure for a long term one, and investing the proper amount to get there.

Step Three:  Understand Your Risk/Reward Tolerances
Everyone is different.  Some are conservative by nature, some are high risk takers.  Some enjoy working with numbers, others hate it.  It’s the same for investing.  Successful investors understand their trade offs in achieving investment rewards against the appropriate risks. It’s how they arrive at their investment style. 

But what are these various risks?  Coming to grips with them, and establishing boundaries for your individual personality and goals is the issue.  Bottom line is that you should have a good feel for your risk tolerances, because every type of investment comes with a price. That price is how much risk you are willing to take for a given return.  The most common factors to understand your risk tolerance level are as follows:
1. Ease of Management:  This determines how much of the investment process you will be doing as opposed to using a professional.  If you enjoy doing hands on work, if you have a considerable amount of free time to do the research, selections, and management, your overall game plan will differ from one who elects to "farm out" the work to a financial advisor.  Similarly, the types of investments, and the volatility of them are related to one’s available time budget.
2. Time Horizon:  The amount of time you have in order to achieve your financial goals is critical.  It affects the type of investments, the rate of return you must shoot for, the actual portfolio mix, and the general risk factor.  If you have a long time to reach your goal, you can use more conservative investments with lower yields since the power of compounding is working for you.
3. Liquidity Needs:  Liquidity is the amount of money you should have available for unforeseen changes in your financial situation.  If you are 100% certain you will not need to liquidate the investment over the amount of time in question, you have no liquidity need.  On the other hand, if there is substantial uncertainty, you have significant liquidity needs.  This affects the type of investments you will make, and when you will make them.  If you are considering stocks, and you will not need the money for 5 years, then this is an acceptable type of investment.  A 5 year time span in the market reduces the volatility aspect significantly compared to a 1 year time frame.
4. Inflation:  This is a critical factor if you are investing for income as many retirees do.  You must account for the potential ravages of inflation when you invest.  If you invest in a $10,000 bond that will pay you 7% per year in today’s dollars $700, and inflation averages 5% per year, say $500, then in real terms you are clearing $200 for year one.  It gets less and less in real terms over the years, so this investment will deteriorate over time.  So the longer you are investing, the more you should consider the inflation factor in choosing the type of investment, and the types of fixed yields.
5. Your Tax Bracket:  With today’s federal tax rates as high as 35%, this is a very important factor since it affects the actual yield you will make.  The higher your bracket, the less you make and the more the government makes.  So it can have a crucial role in how long it will take you to reach your goals.  Also, it is one of the key factors in deciding whether to use tax-free investments or taxable investments. As a general rule of thumb, the lower your overall tax bracket is, the less attractive tax free investments (such as municipal bonds) are.  The more volatile your tax bracket will be over the investment time frame, the harder it is to decide on the proper mix of taxable vs. tax-free selections.
6. Temperament:  It doesn’t do any good to put your money in investments that will drive you crazy.  The overall plan must be coordinated with your overall personality.  If you are ultra conservative, you may not wish to invest in aggressive issues even if they are good.  It may eventually eat you alive from an anxiety standpoint.  You should always invest within an appropriate comfort level from both a quantitative and a QUALITATIVE standpoint.  After all, life is more than just investing, isn’t it?

Step Four:  Use Appropriate Investing Techniques
There are 12 tried-and-true techniques that can literally mean the difference between average success and stellar performance when it comes to investing.

1.  DIVERSIFICATION:  Study after study indicates that 90% of the potential total return on investments comes from the broad allocation of assets, and only 10% comes from the individual selections over the long run!  This is the Modern Portfolio Theory set forth by the Nobel Prize winner, Professor Markowitz.   In layperson’s terms, it means it’s more important to decide how to place your money within various asset classes, (asset allocation model) rather than which individual investment to pick.  Buying IBM stock is secondary to deciding how much money to put into stocks vs. bonds in general.

Why is this?  Because, at various times one type of investment will outperform another type.  If you look at some historical examples, you can understand more clearly.

From 1975 to 1980 Gold took off like a rocket, going from $195/ounce to $800/ounce, while stocks languished.  From 1980 to 1987, real estate was the "wonder"  investment, and gold hit the skids.  From 1987 through 1999 stocks have had a great run, while real estate cooled considerably.  So, unless you got very lucky in picking the right single asset group over this span, and knew when to sell it as well, you would have done much better by diversifying among all these groups so one could pick up the slack for the other.

In effect, diversification increases your chance for returns while reducing the volatility. Here’s an example: Choice One: You can invest in a $10,000 bond paying 10% per year for 25 years. OR, Choice Two: You can put the money in 10 other diversified investments at $1,000 apiece, each with the potential to make 25% per year, or to lose everything over the same 25 year period.  Now, assume 9 out of the 10 investments go completely bankrupt, and only 1 makes the grade.

Which was the better choice?  The $10,000 bond would have returned $108,000 to you.  But, the one successful $1,000 investment would have returned $265,000 to you!  That’s an example of what diversification can do in real terms.

So, you should mix your investments among a number of asset groups, including Equities (Stocks), Fixed Instruments (Bonds, CD’s), Cash Equivalents (Bank accounts, Money market accounts), and Inflation Hedges (Real Estate, Precious metals, and the use of Bond "Ladders").  Further diversification is recommended within these groups.  Buy stocks in small, medium, and large companies, buy stocks in different industries and sectors, and have a group of these, not just one stock in your portfolio.  Some financial experts believe that if you are a moderate risk taker, and you can’t afford to buy at least 11 different individual stocks as your Equity portion, then opt for mutual funds instead.

For the Fixed Instruments, buy various maturities ranging from 2 years up to 30 years to hedge your risk against interest rate changes.  Also, buy different types of these investments:  US Treasuries, GNMA’s, Corporate Bonds, Savings Bonds, and Floating Rate Funds to name a few.  Again, unless you have a significant portfolio where you can buy individual issues, consider using bond funds to further diversify among issues and maturities.

What percentage of your money should you put into each group?  That depends on many factors we have already mentioned, such as your risk tolerance, your time horizon, and so forth.  You must carefully make this decision. Some time-honored tips:  The longer you have to invest, the higher the percentage should be in Equities; the more conservative you are, the less should be in equities. But, even the most conservative should have some equity investments for long-term planning according to the experts.

2.  USE DOLLAR COST AVERAGING:  This is a long term technique in which you buy into an investment periodically instead of in a lump sum.  You buy equal amounts over stated periods (such as monthly).  If the investment performs according to historical statistics, this will lower your purchase price.  Why?  Because investments don’t tend to increase in value in a straight line; rather, they go down sometimes, and up others.  In fact, statistics show that an average stock can change in value up to 50% in a given year.  A $10 stock can decline to $8 or rise to $12.  So, by purchasing periodically, you buy on the downside as well as the upside, thus lowering your average cost per share.  Naturally, this assumes the investment will eventually increase in value over your time horizon.

3.  ENJOY THE MAGIC OF COMPOUNDING:  Investments that allow you to reinvest the income automatically are "compounding" themselves.  You are getting interest on your interest.   As a guide to see how powerful this is, use the so-called "Rule of 72" to calculate its effect.  Divide an investment’s expected yearly rate of return into the number "72"  to see how fast it will double in value.  Thus, an investment returning 6% compounded will double in 12 years.  A 12% yield compounded will double your investment in just 6 years!  BTW, Albert Einstein said "Compound interest is the eighth wonder of the world. Man's greatest invention".

4.  INVEST FOR THE LONG TERM:  When it comes to the equity portion of your investment mix, think long term at least 3 years.  If you can’t maintain your equity position for at least that long, then don’t do it (unless you are an aggressive player).  The longer you hold equities, the more you reduce the volatility risk, a major factor.

5.  DON’T TRY TO TIME THE MARKET:  If you are investing for the long run, then don’t worry about short-term fluctuations, and short term machinations of the market.  People who try to time the market lose 70% of the time. Why?  For the average investor (even the above-average investor!), the market is always 2 steps ahead in information, performance, and projections.  An average investor waits "until the market gets better" to invest, thus insuring that he will be buying "at the top," or at the highest price. Besides, who knows when or where the "top" or "bottom" of a market will occur?    A savvy investor who believes in the investments made for the long run understands this, and will buy steadily in good and bad markets.  Leave market timing to the so-called "experts!"

6.  KEEP EMOTIONS OUT OF THIS:  Take a tip from the professionals.  Look at the entire exercise from a quantitative, cold-calculating approach.  This allows you to invest for the long haul, use dollar-cost averaging effectively, and avoid getting caught trying to time the market, to name a few.

7.  REDUCE TRADING COSTS:  If you are doing your own selections, consider using discount brokerage services, or non-commissioned funds and financial advisors.  Trading costs can put a big dent in your profits, especially if you can’t follow the previously mentioned techniques.  Everything else being equal, a "buy and hold" strategy for equities may be better and cheaper than trading and timing.

8.  LADDER YOUR FIXED INSTRUMENTS:  When you buy interest yielding issues such as Bonds, or CD’s, it is important to mix up the maturity dates to avoid interest rate and inflation risks.  Don’t put all your fixed instrument investments into a singular maturity date schedule.  Keep in mind that most fixed instruments will change in value after you buy them when the interest rates change in the market.  If you buy a bond with a 20 year maturity date today, and interest rates increase 1% next week, the value of your bond declines by 9% (or vice-versa).

So unless you are omnipotent and know what interest rates will be doing over the next 30 years or so, play it safe and stagger your maturity dates.  This is called "Laddering."  That way, you don’t get "locked in."  If you need to cash in, you can cash in a shorter term bond, or one that is maturing, and avoid loss of capital if interest rates have moved against you.  Use maturity dates ranging from 2 years, 5 years, 10 years, 20 years, and 30 years.  Also use floating rate bond funds for safety.

9.  USE MUTUAL FUNDS FOR SMALL PORTFOLIO:  If you don’t have enough money to set up a balanced portfolio of individual stocks and bonds, consider using mutual funds. There are thousands available in all areas: equities, bonds, international, precious metals, you name it.  Pay attention to the fund’s track record, both short-term and long-term.  Research how it has done in various types of markets, i.e.  "bull vs. bear" markets.  Finally, evaluate the costs of using two general types of funds:  "Load" vs. "No-load," that is, a commission-charging vs. non-commission fund.

10.  BONDS VS STOCKS:  A BENCHMARK:  When do bonds make a better investment than stocks?  As we mentioned, your overall investment strategy should have both. However, keep in mind an important historical average.  According to research company Ibbotson Associates, over the past 65 years the S&P 500 stocks have risen an average of 10% a year.  So, from a long-term perspective, if you can make more than that on bonds (in after tax dollars), have a higher percentage in bonds.  If not, have a higher percentage in stocks.

11.  THE SECRET TO MARKET PERFORMANCE:  Remember this:  Investment markets are fueled by emotions in the short term, and value in the long term.  Even the biggest of players follow this axiom.  That means you should use the short term emotional angle to buy in at the lower end and hold it for the value.  It also means if you are going to try to "play the market" you are at the mercy of these emotions (the market’s and yours), and it can be quite a roller coaster.

12.  BALANCE & RE-EVALUATE YOUR INVESTMENT PLAN:  Once you have set up your plan, coordinating the investments with your financial goals and situation, don’t go to sleep.  You should balance the mix of equities and bonds periodically.  If the mix percentage changes from your original plan because of the change in valuation of the investments, adjust these investments accordingly by either selling or adding to the mix to bring the percentages back in line.  This technique forces you to sell at the top and buy at the bottom, to increase your chance of success.  As a rule of thumb, once you do this periodic check (for most people it is once a year), if the ratios have changed by 10% or more, you should make the necessary moves to restore the balance.

You should re-evaluate your personal financial situation to see if things have changed.  Has your overall monetary situation improved dramatically due to job change, inheritance, etc?  How about your investment philosophy?  Or other value systems?  If so, maybe you should re-structure your financial goals accordingly.  We all change over time.  Make sure you are periodically re-balancing to increase your overall success rate.

Conclusion
As you can see, saving and investing can be done in a step by step procedure.  There are no "hidden secrets."  But successful investing does depend on putting in the time, either by yourself if you are going to handle your own money or a financial advisor who will be doing it for you.  If a fundamental, diversified, long-term approach is used, with periodic balancing to take into account your changing financial situation, and if the 12 time-honored investment tactics & techniques that we discussed are used, you will be well on your way to becoming a very successful investor.

P.S.  Enclosed you will find some guide sheets to provide you with insights in 3 important areas:
1. Questions To Ask Financial Advisors;
2. Investment Options Available; and,
3. The 9 Most Common Errors An Investor Makes.

Here’s hoping you find them helpful...

1.  Questions To Ask Financial Advisors
If you are considering using a professional to help you with your investing, make sure the person you select fits into your overall game plan.  To help you in this selection process, here are 11 issues to  discuss:
1. Investment philosophy.
2. Services to be provided and types of investment options available.
3. Past investment performances:  1 year, 5 years, 10 years.
4. Will advisor have discretionary powers over the account?
5. Can anyone other than yourself remove funds from the account?
6. Licenses, educational background, overall experience, references.
7. Will your account be typical or will it be bigger or smaller than an average account managed by the advisor?
8. How will financial advisor be compensated?  Commissions vs. fees or a combination of both?
9. Get copy of fee structure and Parts I and II of Form ADV.
10. Is advisor or advisor’s firm affiliated with any of them investments that are recommended?
11. What would happen to your account if the advisor left, or you wanted another advisor?

Keep in mind that you will be working with this person over a relatively long period of time.  It should be a person with whom you feel comfortable and confident.  This is a high priority issue, so do your homework first.  Spend at least as much time in selecting a financial advisor as you do in buying a new car.  While this analogy may seem ridiculous, statistics show that it isn’t the case!  So stand out from the crowd and give yourself a chance to be a successful investor.  After all, this is your future and your family’s future at stake.

2.  Investment Options Available
Since most successful investors use a diversified approach where the portfolio consists of a mixture of bonds, stocks, and cash equivalents, you should have a knowledge of what investment options exist within these areas, and the pluses and minuses of each as well.  Whether you will be buying individual issues within these groups, or using mutual funds instead depends on your temperament, and budget.  In either case, the general categories of mutual funds respond the same way as do individual issues.

Stocks & Stock Funds
Statistics have shown that, over the long run, the best investment performers have been equities, or stocks.  Stocks can be further divided into three main categories:  Large Cap, Mid Cap, and Small Cap, the difference being how much capitalization exists.  A Small Cap stock means a company with capitalization of less than $500 million.  A Mid Cap is one with more than $500 million, but less than 2 Billion; and a Large Cap has in excess of $2 Billion in market value of its outstanding stock.  These differences affect such investment concerns as volatility, potential for growth, and base of ownership, to name a few.

There are numerous ways stocks can be further defined.  You can buy preferred vs. common.  There are growth-oriented stocks, there are value-oriented stocks.  How about high dividend stocks, or low dividend stocks.  You can also buy so-called "Blue Chip" issues. Each has its own purpose, advantage and disadvantage according to the goals you have set.

Instead of buying individual stocks, you can buy into a stock mutual fund. These funds hold a number of different stocks so there is more diversity. The theory here is that an investor can reduce risk and/or increase diversity by using a fund instead of buying  individual stocks.  In fact, most financial advisors would agree that an individual should never rely on just buying one stock issue.  To reduce risk, a portfolio should have a number of stocks.  Hence, the possible advantage of a mutual fund.

Funds have other advantages in that investors can also buy in smaller amounts, have the returns reinvested (or compounded), and supposedly rely on the fund to manage the market changes.  Funds cost money in that there is a commission to buy in or out if the fund is a "Load (commission based)" fund, and there is a yearly management fee (both load and no-load funds charge this).  Another disadvantage is that funds must follow their charter as to how much stock to own at any given time, which may not always be the right amount in certain market conditions.  This is called being "Fully Invested."

Fixed Instruments & Funds
Fixed instruments, commonly referred to as Bonds, are basically an obligation issued by a borrower who agrees to pay back the full amount plus interest at a set future "due date."  These bonds can range in due date (maturity) from very short less than one year to very long up to 30-40 years.  As a general statement, bonds are used more by the average investor for creating income than for creating appreciation.

Bonds are also rated according to the ability of the issuer to pay them back; this is called their "credit quality."  It is very important to understand that the rate of return a bond pays relates to credit quality. Thus, everything else being equal in the analysis, the higher the rate of return promised, the lower its credit quality.  Investors must pay attention to this axiom and integrate it with their risk tolerances and overall goals.

A bond may fluctuate in value until it reaches its maturity date, since its value relates to changes in interest rates after purchase.  Thus, if you buy a bond today paying 7% interest, and interest rates rise, the value of your bond will decline.  Why would anyone want to buy yours at full price when they can get a new one paying a higher interest rate.  So you would have to "discount" the bond, and sell it at a lower price than you paid for it to get someone interested.  This is a point of which many people are unaware, and it can cause trouble (and loss of investment money).  The only way you can guarantee the face value of this type of bond is to hold it to maturity.  However, there are "floating rate" bonds around which tend to hedge this risk.  With these investments, the principal tends to stay constant, but the yield changes with interest rates.

Thus, when you consider buying bonds, the maturity date is as important a consideration as is the yield.  In fact, the longer the maturity date, the more the bond price will vary before maturity as interest rates change.  Bonds are categorized according to the purpose and the issuer.  The main categories are:
US Government Obligation Bonds:  Backed by the U.S., these are issues such as US Treasuries, and Savings Bonds
US Backed Bonds:  These are issues backed by various US Government agencies such as GNMA, FNMA, Sallie Mae.  Most of them are based on an agency guaranteeing value of mortgages.
Corporate Bonds:  These corporate obligations are rated according to credit worthiness, with AAA the highest, declining  according to the alphabet.  BBB is more risky, etc.
Municipal Obligations:  These are bonds issued by municipalities such as states, cities, revenue authorities.  Like corporate bonds, they are rated according to risk.  Unlike corporates, many municipal bonds can have tax exempt status, meaning you pay no income tax on the interest received.  But not all municipal bonds are alike in either taxability or risk.

Similar to stocks, there are numerous Bond Funds which have pooled together a number of different issues, to diversify your risk.  These funds usually categorize themselves according to the type of bonds they buy Municipal bond fund, GNMA Bond Fund, Corporate bond fund, and so forth.

Cash Equivalents & Funds
These are very short term investments that tend to be readily converted into cash with less volatility and loss of principal.  Short term CD’s from banks, savings accounts, money market accounts, and short-term US Treasuries are the main examples.

The advantage to these cash equivalents is that your principal can stay relatively constant, and you can cash in immediately even if interest rates have moved against you quickly compared to longer term fixed instruments.  Naturally, the trade off is that the yield on these investments tends to be substantially lower than bonds with longer maturities.  As we have seen with every type of investment, there is a price for everything, and everything has its price!

3.  The 9 Most Common Errors An Investor Makes
Without a doubt, a good investor has the ability to minimize risk and maximize return another way of saying reduce errors.  If you can avoid the following errors, you are well on your way to reaching the upper percentile of successful investors.  

DON’T MAKE THESE ERRORS:
1. Putting all your eggs in one basket.  Not diversifying properly.
2. Investing without a quantifiable goal, and without understanding your individual investment persona.
3. Not considering the effects your tax bracket will have on the investments especially with tax rates.
4. Waiting for the market to get better before investing.  Trying to "time" the market -  (30% succeed and 70% fail!).
5. Failing to use equities, especially for long-term investing.
6. Relying on hot tips and emotions.
7. Over use of short-term trading vs "buy and hold" strategy.
8. Paying too much in commissions, or fees for investment transactions.
9. Not balancing the investment mix periodically.

Reference: Practice Enhancers, Able & Co.

Friday, December 21, 2012

Education Tax Credits

EDUCATION TAX CREDITS
There are two tax credits for higher education.  For more information see IRS Publication 970.
  1. The American Opportunity credit (modified HOPE) provides a refundable tax credit of up to $2,500 for the cost of undergraduate college tuition and other related expenses. You’ll need to spend at least $4,000 in a single year to get the full credit. The credit begins to phase out for individual taxpayers with adjusted gross incomes over $80,000 or $160,000 for married couples filing jointly. Forty percent of the credit is refundable, which benefits low-income students paying their way through school (who may owe no federal income taxes).
  2. The Lifetime Learning Credit provides a tax credit of up to $2,000 for any level of college education (even graduate school), and doesn't require a minimum level of enrollment. However, the Lifetime Learning Credit has a narrower income range compared to the tuition deduction. For single filers in 2012, the credit begins to get reduced starting at a $52,000 income level, and disappears entirely at $62,000. For joint filers in 2012, these limitation numbers begin at $104,000 and end at $124,000.
American Opportunity (modified HOPECredit & Lifetime Learning Credits
A new provision in the tax laws took hold in 1998, to help foster higher education.  This part of the Taxpayer Relief Act of 1997 involves two related tax credits: The HOPE scholarship credit, and the Lifetime Learning credit.  These credits are one part of the new "Education Trilogy" package that was recently enacted.  The other two parts are the Education IRA and the Student loan interest deductibility.

All three of these enactments are designed primarily to help low and middle income families deal with the costs of higher education.  In regard to the HOPE and Lifetime Learning credits, taxpayers will be eligible for a direct credit against their federal income taxes per year for higher educational expenses paid on behalf of a qualifying student.  A brief rundown of these two credits follows.

HOPE Scholarship Credit (old law) 
Beginning with expenses paid after December 31, 1997, this is a credit for the first two years of a higher educational program.  The expenses must be for tuition and related fees for the taxpayer, taxpayer's spouse, or taxpayer's qualified dependent.

The credit can be up to $1,500 per year for the first two years, based on a percentage formula equal to the sum of 100% of the first $1,000 of tuition plus 50% of the next $1,000 in tuition.  So, to get the full $1,500 credit, you would have to pay at least $2,000 in qualified tuition expenses.

President Obama signed in law on the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act (HR 1), which passed Congress on Friday, February 13th, 2009.

American Opportunity (modified HOPE) Tax Credit 
The HOPE education credit was renamed the American Opportunity Tax Credit in 2009. The credit is worth up to $2,500 on the first $4,000 of qualifying educational expenses, which will include course materials as well as tuition. The credit now applies to all four years of undergraduate college education, not just the first two years of college as under the previous HOPE credit. The credit is also available to more taxpayers than the previous HOPE credit, with a new phase-out range of $80,000 to $90,000 (or $160,000 to $180,00 for joint filers). Up to 40% of the credit is refundable.

What is the American Opportunity Tax Credit? ($2,500 max credit per year per student)
The American Opportunity Tax Credit is a federal tax credit for college tuition, fees, books, and supplies paid during the tax year for yourself, your spouse, or a dependent. The credit applies to the first four years of post-secondary education.

The credit equals 100% of the first $2000, and 25% of the next $2000 that you paid, up to a maximum of $2500 per year per student. Forty percent of the credit is refundable, allowing families with little or no tax liability to get a refund payment of up to $1000 per student.

The American Opportunity Tax Credit is part of the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009 (Economic Stimulus Plan). It replaces the Hope Credit for tax years 2009 through 2012.

Is the American Opportunity Tax Credit the same as the Hope Credit?
The American Opportunity Tax Credit, part of the 2009 Economic Stimulus Plan, expanded, increased, and replaced the Hope Credit for tax years 2009 and 2010, and has been extended for tax years 2011 and 2012. Some people refer to the American Opportunity Credit as the Hope Credit.

Compared to the Hope Credit, the American Opportunity Credit:

  • has higher income limits
  • increases the tax credit to a maximum of $2500 (vs $1800 for the Hope Credit)
  • can be used for the first four years of college instead of only the first two years
  • allows credit for required books and supplies in addition to tuition and fees
  • is 40% refundable
The Tax Relief, Unemployment Insurance Reauthorization, and Job Creation Act of 2010 extended the American Opportunity Tax Credit for tax years 2011 and 2012.

Lifetime Learning Credit ($2,000 max credit per year per family)
Congress pegged this supplemental credit to go into effect as of July 1, 1998.  Originally, this was a 20% credit on a maximum of $5,000 of annual educational expenses for post-secondary schooling to improve or achieve job-related skills.  This maximum educational expense amount became $10,000 by the year 2003.  This translates into a $2,000 maximum credit against one's income taxes.  It is for an unlimited number of years, so it can be used for graduate school programs as well.  

What is the Lifetime Learning Credit?
The Lifetime Learning Credit is a federal tax credit for qualified education expenses paid during the tax year for yourself, your spouse, or a dependent. The credit applies to full-time or part-time post-secondary education, including undergraduate, graduate, and professional study.

The credit equals 20% of the first $10,000 that you paid for all family members, up to a maximum of $2000 per year per family. The credit is not refundable, meaning that you will not get a refund payment if your credit is more than what you owe in taxes.


The Lifetime Learning Credit is one of two federal tax credits that help families offset the costs of post-secondary education.  You cannot claim both 

credits for the same student in the same year.

How The Two Credits Interract
Basically, the law says you cannot claim BOTH a HOPE and a Lifetime Learning credit for the same student during the same year.  You must choose one or the other.   

Some Limitations And Caveats
There are four major ways in which these credits may be reduced or totally eliminated for a taxpayer.

First, there is a phase out limitation based on your modified adjusted gross income (AGI).  Lifetime Learning Credit for single filers in 2012, begins to get reduced starting at a $52,000 income level, and disappears entirely at $62,000.  For joint filers in 2012, these limitation numbers begin at $104,000 and end at $124,000.  American Opportunity credit begins to phase out for individual taxpayers with adjusted gross incomes over $80,000 or $160,000 for married couples filing jointly. Forty percent of the credit is refundable.

Second, these credits are reduced by scholarships, grants, and other tax free educational assistance programs the student receives.

Third, you can't take either of the credits in any year that you withdraw money from the new Education IRA plan to pay for the same educational expenses.

Fourth, if you cash in certain Series EE Bonds to pay for the educational expenses, and you take the credits, the interest from these bonds may not be exempt from tax.  So you may have to choose between taking the credits or exempting the bond interest.

These credits are definitely a strong statement from the Federal Government to support higher learning.  For low to middle income taxpayers, they can make a positive difference in the "bottom line" when it comes to educational expenses.

Deducting interest on student loans. Students often take out loans to pay for college expenses. Interest on student loans may be deductible up to $2,500 per year. Be aware that this deduction is gradually phased out as your income raises. This deduction may change after 2012 to provide that interest is deductible only for the first 60 months of repayment. Like the tuition deduction, the student loan interest deduction is taken directly on your tax return and doesn't need to be itemized.

Reference: Practice Enhancers, Able & Co., Education Credits – Federal Tax Guide • 1040.com – File Your ...

Wednesday, December 19, 2012

Hiring a Domestic/Nanny

Hiring a Domestic/Nanny
Employing A Household Worker
When hiring a household worker to provide daycare help, there are two related issues.  The first is the actual cost in "after tax" dollars.  The second involves the rules and paperwork required

Actual Cost In After-Tax Dollars
If you are considering the dollar ramifications of paying an in-house domestic, you must include the extra costs above and beyond the actual salary.  From a tax standpoint, you become an employer and, as such, must 
pay the employer's share of federal and state payroll taxes, as well as any required worker's compensation.

For federal purposes, you are responsible for withholding social security and medicare tax (which amount to 7.65% of the gross wages paid).  Additionally, as the employer, you must also match that dollar amount.  Household Workers - Social Security Publications  There is also a federal unemployment tax of up to 6.2% on the first $7,000 of wages paid per employee–although it usually doesn't go that high.  If you file your state unemployment taxes on time, the federal rate is usually much less than this, averaging around .8% instead since a credit of up to 5.4% is granted against state taxes paid.

There are several exceptions to these required federal filings.  If annual wage payments are less than $1,800, or are paid to a spouse, parent, or your child under age 21, no tax is usually due.  Also, if you pay a household worker under age 18 for occasional help (such as a babysitter) these filing rules usually don't apply either.

For most state purposes, you may have to pay an employer's unemployment tax in addition to withholding state income tax from the domestic's pay.  You should also have worker's compensation coverage in case the employee gets a job-related injury.

On the plus side, if this employee qualifies under the IRS dependent care provisions, you may be entitled to a tax credit and/or a tax deduction.  The credit is based on a sliding scale percentage of wages paid.  The higher your income, the lower the credit with a minimum (if you qualify) of 20% of the first $2400 in wages paid for one qualifying child care credit, with a maximum of two qualifying dependents allowed.  For those taxpayers who qualify at work for a special "flexible spending" plan, a deduction from taxable income of up to $5,000 may be possible instead.

Paperwork Involved
Publication 926 (2012), Household Employer's Tax Guide
There are numerous tax filings that must be made to the federal and state governments when you hire an in-house domestic worker.

First, you must register with the federal and state authorities as an employer.  This means filing certain registration forms to record you as an employer and to get the necessary tax identification numbers, and employee benefits rates.  You also should set up worker's compensation coverage (which is usually done through a commercial insurance carrier) when the state doesn't do it for you.

Your employee must fill out, sign, and submit to you a W-4 Form which formalizes their name, social security number, and withholding status.  Also required for Non-US Citizens is an I-9 Form to prove their legal work eligibility status.

As the employer, you are required to withhold, collect, and send to the federal and state governments the appropriate payroll taxes as discussed above.  These taxes are usually sent in on a periodic basis using some form of a coupon or worksheet.  The due dates depend on the dollar amount of taxes being collected.  For most domestic help situations, it is once a month, once a quarter, or once a year, depending on payroll size.

On a periodic basis you must file appropriate federal and state payroll tax returns.  On these forms you are listing the gross wages paid, the taxes withheld and due, and any amounts already paid in through the coupons.  For federal purposes, these filings can be done in conjunction with your individual income tax return on "Schedule H (Form 1040), Household Employment Taxes."  Although the federal taxes due may be paid only once a year, you may wish to elect estimated tax payments throughout the year to avoid a large balance due at tax time.  You will probably also need to file a state unemployment tax return for the quarter, showing the total wages paid, and the amount subject to state unemployment tax.

On a yearly basis, you also file appropriate year-end federal and state W-2 forms for your employee.  Periodically your worker's compensation carrier will ask for a report to verify the gross payroll in order to adjust the billing charges.

For people who are self-employed, federal treatment may be different.  Household filings may be done on different forms. A quarterly form 941 or Form 943, and yearly FUTA form may be required. 
Tax Topics - Topic 756 Employment Taxes for Household Employees


There are several minimum recordkeeping requirements of which to be aware.  As an employer, you are supposed to provide the employee with appropriate pay stubs.  You should also keep all related records for at least four years beyond the year in question.

As you can see, it can get pretty complicated.  Of course, failure to follow all these rules and regulations can get even more complicated, and much more expensive if you are charged with penalties and interest for failure to file timely and proper returns.

Naturally, you may elect to have these filings done by a professional.  In fact, approximately 50% of the taxpayers involved in these filings do just that to avoid the potential headaches and penalties for improper or late filing of all this paperwork.  How are the household employee's payroll taxes paid?

Reference: Practice Enhancers, Able & Co.

Gifts and Tax Consequences

Gifts and Tax Consequences
There is always a great deal of confusion about making gifts.  Some people think it is a tax deduction for them on their individual tax return.  Others think it will cost them income tax if they give money.  Most wonder if they have to record this gift with the government in some form or another.  Here's a quick overview of IRS rules and regulations of making gifts.

Income Tax vs Estate Tax
First, understand that there are two major forms of federal taxes people face: Income taxes, and Estate taxes.  Income taxes refer to the moneys owed the government based on how much taxable income you make each year.  Estate taxes refer to taxes your estate may owe upon your death based on the net assets you have.  In effect, it is a tax on your net worth, not your income.

How does a gift come into play?  In a nutshell, gifts do not directly impact your income tax liability.  Thus, you will not save any income taxes, nor can you deduct a gift on your income tax return if you make one to an individual.  Nor will you owe any income taxes if you make a gift.

However, making gifts may affect your estate tax situation, either positively or negatively, depending on the type of gift, and the size of your estate.  This is because of the way gifts over a certain size are handled by the laws.  In effect, it "lumps" them together over a cumulative period so that making a gift may affect your overall estate tax filings and liability.

How Big A Gift Can You Make?
A taxpayer gets a break on making annual gifts.  Under current federal rules, a person can give an "annual exclusion" up to $13,000 (2012) per year (adjusted annually for inflation), per person without any consequences, and without generally being required to file any gift tax return.  A married couple can jointly give $26,000 per person without it creating a taxable event.

Beyond this amount however, complications arise.  If you give more than $13,000 per person per year, you are then required to file a Gift tax return which is due by April 15 of the year following the gift date.  This gift amount may then be subject to a tax, depending on the cumulative value of all prior taxable gifts.  In effect, you are running a balance with the government until you reach certain limits.  How much are these limits? You have a "Unified Credit" with Uncle Sam which allows you to leave a cumulative total of $5,120,000 (2012) to beneficiaries through either your estate and/or cumulative gifts exceeding the previously mentioned $13,000 per year per person.

As an example, if you give someone $25,000 in one year, the rough calculation works like this.  The first $13,000 is not subject to tax.  The remaining $12,000 must be recorded as a reduction in your allowable $5,120,000 exemption equivalent.  You pay no tax now, but it may be subject to a tax in later years if you exceed the remaining balance of the $5,120,000 exemption.

What tax rate will you pay on this gift in excess of $13,000 per year?  It depends on the amount by which you eventually exceed the $5,120,000 exemption.  When your combined taxable gifts and net estate value (at death) exceed this exemption, the tax rate can rise rapidly.  It can reach 35% at the upper levels quite rapidly, so it is a potentially stiff tax.

There is an exception to this $13,000 per year figure, however, if you are directly paying for educational costs on a secondary level, or medical expenses for a person.

Using Gifts For Estate Planning
Making gifts can therefore be used to save on estate taxes.  If you know your overall net worth will exceed $5,120,000 at death, you can make use of the $13,000 annual exclusion to reduce your estate, and therefore save taxes down the road.  If you have a large estate, the savings can amount to upwards of 35 cents on every dollar given away.  As you can see, it can be a very important tax-saving tool, as well as being a very nice thing to do!

Non-Cash Gifts
A common misconception occurs when it comes to making non-cash gifts, and it is important to set the record straight.  This issue frequently involves giving stocks or property.  When a gift of this nature is made, the value of the gift for reporting purposes, and for gift/estate purposes is usually the fair market value at the date of the gift(there are exceptions if the gift has depreciated in value since its acquisition).  So, if you give your daughter a house currently worth $200,000, that's the gift figure you must use when you file the gift tax return.

However, when your daughter then sells the property, her basis for tax purposes may be different.  In most situations, the basis she must use for determining whether or not she has a capital gain is your original basis (plus any capital improvement costs), not the fair market value at the gift date.  Thus, if the house you give her only cost you $125,000, your daughter must use this figure and pay taxes on the difference.

Thus, gifting assets that have appreciated in value requires proper planning.  You must coordinate this activity with your overall estate planning, and with the tax bracket of the recipient if they anticipate selling the property.

The moral of the story? Consult your financial and/or legal advisors before making any gifts exceeding $13,000 per year per person, and especially if the gift consists of appreciated property, like real estate or stocks.  Small fortunes in taxes can be lost with improper planning in this area.

Reference: Practice Enhancers, Able & Co.

Buying vs. Leasing a Car

Buying vs. Leasing a Car
To Buy Or Lease?
Overview
Buying vs leasing is a very common question nowadays.  Here are some notable stats on the % of cars leased. 
· As of 2010, 20% of all new cars are leased.
· The percentage of new cars leased was its lowest in 1990 at 7% of new cars leased and reached its peak in 1999 at 24%.
· The percentage of new cars leased increased from 1990 through 1999, then saw a decline from 2000-2005.
· The average percentage of new cars leased is 18% of new cars vs new cars purchased.
% of New Cars Leased vs New Cars Purchased

(SourceBureau of Transportation Statistics)

1990
7%
1991
9%
1992
12%
1993
16%
1994
18%
1995
19%
1996
20%
1997
20%
1998
22%
1999
24%
2000
23%
2001
21%
2002
19%
2003
17%
2004
17%
2005
17%
2006
18%
2007
19%
2008
18%
2009
19%
2010
20%
Leasing is the process of "renting" for a specific amount of time.  In effect, you are only paying for a portion of the value of the item, not its entire value.  While many different types of equipment are available for lease, the most prevalent type of leasing occurs with automobiles, so we will concentrate on this area.  Usually, the lease is for a 2-5 year period.  You put up an initial security deposit, and usually 1-2 months' advance lease payment.  In addition, when it comes to leasing a car, you pay for registration, taxes, and plates.  The most prevalent type of lease usually stipulates that you will handle the maintenance and repairs as well.  Most car leases have a surcharge for driving more than a certain number of miles over the term of the lease. The majority use a 10,000 to 12,000 mile per annum figure.  If you exceed this figure, you may pay 10-30 cents per extra mile on average.

At the end of the lease, you turn the car back in.  If there has been any "excessive" wear and tear on the vehicle, it is usually your responsibility to make good on the costs.  Depending on whether you have an open-end or closed-end lease, there may be extra charges as well if the car is valued at less than the originally agreed-upon "residual value." In many lease deals, at the end of the term you may buy the car at a "lease buyout price."

As you can see, leasing may or may not be better than buying.  Here are a few comparisons:

Benefits to buying
• Car has a residual value to you after a time.  You can sell it.
• No restrictions on how many miles per year you can drive it.
• No insurance problems associated with a "premature" termination.
• If a home equity or investment-type loan is used to finance, the interest charges may be deductible on your tax return.
• You can treat the car any way you wish.  No turn-in problems with arguing over residual value.

Benefits to leasing
• Usually less up-front money to drive car away.
• Lower monthly payment, but not necessarily lower total costs.
• It is a form of "off-balance sheet" financing, so it may not add to your borrowing maximums for other loan qualifications.
• The higher the cost of the car, and the higher the business use percentage, the greater the tax advantage may be under certain circumstances.
• Some leases may be easier to get than a loan for those with weaker credit.

Two Main Types Of Leases
Closed End Lease
This is the most common type used by consumers.  At the end of the lease period, you "walk away" from the car.  The so-called "residual value" of the car is determined at the beginning of the lease, so you only pay a fixed amount over a fixed period of time.  Tip:  Get an option to buy the car at the expiration of your lease.

Open End Lease
Although this type allows for a smaller monthly payment, it does so because you are taking extra risks at the end of the lease-the risk of value decline of the vehicle. For this type of lease,  you set the value at the beginning of the term, but, unlike the closed end lease, you pay extra if the car is worth less at the end than the price you set at the beginning.  Conversely, if it is worth more, you would get a rebate.  This lease type can be a disaster if the residual value of a car model drops due to changes in demand, or manufacturers' defects.

Questions To Ask
Deciding whether to buy or lease depends on a number of issues, some financial, some purely qualitative.  Some of the questions you should ask yourself before deciding are:
• How many miles do I drive per year?
• How long do I want to drive this make/model car?
• What kind of monthly payment budget do I have?
• What deductible business-use percentage will I qualify for?
• How much do I enjoy the feel of a new car?
• How good am I at reading contracts?

Assuming you have answered these questions to your satisfaction, the financial comparisons of buying vs leasing are quantifiable.
Some Tips
Shop around; leases are very different, and very negotiable.

If the car you are interested in is being offered at super low financing, or with high rebates, odds are it will be cheaper to buy than lease over the long run.

Don't assume the leasing terms for the car you want are set in stone.  Items such as excess mileage, excess wear, early termination clause, advance preparation fees, and Gap insurance can be negotiated to some extent.

Seriously review the "early termination" penalties.  These are extra charges you may have to pay if you turn in the car early before the lease expires.  Many companies will charge you these penalties(which can be very steep) even if it is not your fault-such as a stolen car, or a car that gets totalled.

Watch for unusual restrictions in the contract such as where you can and cannot drive the car.  Some leases don't allow you to drive the vehicle out of the country; some don't allow you to drive it out of the state.

Consider buying Gap insurance especially for the early years.  This insurance covers the difference between the car's depreciation value at the time of mishap, and what you still owe on the lease at the time.  They are rarely the same in the early years.

Consider having your lawyer review the lease before signing.  Remember, this is a contract that is for a relatively large sum, filled with many legal clauses, and it can have a definite impact on your credit rating, among other items.

Definitely review the excess mileage clause.  Some leases have very low monthly payments because they only let you drive 5,000 miles per year without penalty charges.  Make sure your yearly driving average is within the ballpark of the lease's allowance, or be prepared to pay the extra mileage charges.  As a tip, if you negotiate this extra charge before signing the lease, you may be able to greatly lower this extra cost-by as much as 50%.

Leasing falls under the Federal Consumer Leasing Act, so be aware of your rights; get a copy of these rights from the lease company.

As you can see, whether leasing or buying is best for you depends on a number of issues, financial facts, and "guesstimates."  Hopefully, this analysis will help to shed some light on the issues and options to make it easier for you.

Reference: Practice Enhancers, Able & Co.